Five Brands To Note From Copenhagen Fashion Week Astrid Andersen

19/ago/2017 08:56:58 charlotteone Contatta l'autore

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An up-and-comer in London’s menswear scene, last season Astrid Andersen returned to her native Denmark to debut her eponymous womenswear label. “You know, there is a lot of pressure when I do menswear in London,” she told Vogue backstage. “There’s pressure here as well, but it's a soft way to launch something for me.” Last season’s sport, grunge and streetwear-inspired silhouettes were given a spring refresh in stiff striped cotton, dark crushed velvet, and unexpectedly, a silky blue floral print – the latter of which suggested a promising new direction for the designer.


In eight years, husband-and-wife team Ditte and Nikolaj Reffstrup have transformed a modest cashmere label into one of the most globally well-known Danish fashion brands, beloved for its floral-print wrap dresses and skirts, printed tees, colourful knits and shopper-friendly price points. Influencers like Pernille Teisbaek and Pandora Sykes have championed their wares on Instagram; so too have powerful stockists like MyTheresa and Net-a-Porter, the latter releasing an exclusive capsule collection with Ganni last May. The spring/summer 2018 collection did not disappoint: wide-leg denim flares, in pale pink and orange dyes, slung low on the hip, promise to be hits with the #GanniGirls set; so too do reworked staples like denim jackets and midi wrap-dresses, the latter introduced in new stripes and florals with voluminous half sleeves.

Baum und Pferdgarten

Fun, easy, feminine: that’s Baum und Pferdgarten, one of the more established labels on the Copenhagen Fashion Week roster. Models paraded out new versions of the 18-year-old label’s steady hits, including a double-breasted wool check coat (now in its third iteration) with a matching cross-body bag, a doll dress in stiff blue cotton, and ruffled floral dresses that skim the calf. Designers Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave this year looked to Silverlake and its eclectic mish-mash of styles and cultures for inspiration, infusing this season’s lineup with streetwear and sporty elements as well as denim jackets and sweatshirts bearing the Los Angeles neighbourhood’s name.

Stine Goya

Stine Goya’s eponymous label celebrated its 10th anniversary this season. Rather than reissue its bestsellers, Goya found subtler ways to pay homage to the label’s history: peach-print trousers and suits riffed on its signature colour, whilst lyrics from past show soundtracks were brightly embroidered onto a black robe coat. Goya’s studio designs – and often hand-paints – all of its prints in-house. The label, which is known best for its romantic floral dresses, is placing an increased focus on tailoring, with pleasing results: a vivid pink and silver floral brocade pantsuit was a favourite, as were a series of glittering, Ophelia-esque dresses layered in silk and tulle.

Saks Potts

The story of Saks Potts begins with a coat. At 20, founders Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts, friends since nursery school, fashioned a series of patchwork shearling numbers in sweet colour combinations like teddy-bear brown, cotton-candy pink and pistachio. The coat, dubbed the Febbe, became an instant hit with the international street style set. Now in their eighth season, the designers have proven their playful, extravagant aesthetic works for separates and swimwear too. It’s the furry outerwear, however, that continues to steal the show. Standouts for spring/summer 2018 include a white leather trench with fluffy mint collars and cuffs, and a Sixties-style cropped jacket in plush pink and white check.

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